A Declaration of Conformity to Technical Regulations (DOC TR) – which places responsibility for safety and quality solely with the manufacturer – will have to be issued to every Russian registered company or distributor. But on a positive note, certification specialist RusTest International said that DOC TRs will be issued for a period equivalent to a products’ use by date, not per invoice or shipment.

In addition to the old documentation and samples requirements, a General Production Quality Control Flowchart, indicating the stages at which quality control takes place is required.

According to RusTest, perfumes and cosmetics which conform to the updated technical regulations and which have undergone conformity assessment to these regulations under Article 6 must be marked with the united symbol of market states (members of the CU). Moreover this marking must be done prior to the release of products onto the market and applied to each unit destined for sale in CU states. Everything issued prior to 1 July 2012 will not require new marking.

Copyright © 2012 Cosmeticbusiness.com

Argentina is the third largest exporter of soybeans in the world, which means many of the country’s agricultural areas are heavily sprayed by the pervasive pesticide and herbicide chemicals used to grow the crop, which is typically of genetically-modified (GM) origin. And this has most assuredly been the case in soybean field-surrounded Ituzaingo, where the local cancer rate is at least 41 times higher than the national average, and rates of birth defects and infant mortality are off the charts.

For Gatica, the quest for environmental justice began when her own newborn daughter recently died of kidney failure just three days after being born. Gatica began talking to neighbors and local authorities about what may have been the cause of the child’s death, and came to the disturbing realization that heavy pesticide and herbicide sprayings on the soybean fields that surround her town are responsible for causing unprecedented health problems throughout her community, including in her own daughter.

In the first epidemiological study ever conducted in the area, Gatica’s persistent door-to-door surveying uncovered the dirty truth about these aerial sprayings, which prompted her and more than a dozen of her concerned neighbors to jointly launch an official campaign called Stop Spraying. Despite a lack of resources and repeated threats by local police and some business owners, Gatica and her supporters were able to achieve a significant victory in protecting not only their town, but also the entire country of Argentina from biotechnology poison.
In addition to helping get a local ordinance passed that has banned the spraying of all pesticides and herbicides within 2,500 meters of local residences, Gatica’s efforts have also helped convince her country’s Supreme Court to rule that agrochemical companies must now prove that their chemicals are safe before they can be permitted for use.

Prior to the ruling, the burden of proof was on local residents and other concerned parties to prove that an existing chemical was unsafe before it ever had the chance of being pulled from the market. But now, chemical companies will actually have to abide by commonsense regulatory and safety protocols before carelessly thrusting their toxic brews on rural agriculture.

Gatica’s successes in fighting the tyranny of the biotechnology industry in her community have been so significant that she was recently awarded the 2012 Goldman Environmental Prize (GEP), a prestigious prize given to individuals working at the grassroots level to protect the environment and fight injustice. But Gatica’s efforts do not stop there.

‘Recognizing the extent of the issue, Gatica is working with the Stop Spraying campaign to ban all aerial spraying in Argentina and create buffer zones so that agrochemicals are not used in close proximity to residential areas and waterways,’ says a recent GEP announcement. ‘With Argentina’s ban on endosulfan (another toxic insecticide) going into effect July 2013, Gatica and her colleagues are pushing for a nationwide ban on glyphosate as well.’

Copyright © Jonathan Benson, NaturalNews.com

Joss Stone states: “I’m proud to support Cruelty Free International. At last someone has stepped up to the plate to take on the task of ending cosmetics tests on animals around the world.”

Joss is raising awareness across the world about the continued cruel use of animals to test everyday beauty products and toiletries. She said: “Thousands of animals continue to die each year for lipstick, toothpaste, fragrance and other products, so it’s crucial that we campaign for a global ban. Cruelty Free International has taken on this challenge and I am pleased to support them, and I urge you all to do the same.”

Incredibly over 80% of the world still allows animals to be used in cruel experiments for the sake of beauty. Despite progress with some countries and companies, animals, including rabbits, guinea pigs, mice and rats are routinely injected, gassed, force-fed and killed for cosmetics testing. In a global market it is important that all countries ban the practice to avoid testing simply moving around the world to those countries with no effective laws.

Cruelty Free International, the new global non-profit organization, was established in March by the BUAV, one of the world’s longest standing and most respected animal protection organizations. Cruelty Free International will place the issue of animal testing on the agenda of many governments for the very first time as part of a global strategy to tackle product testing. With offices in London, Boston and Singapore, it will work with governments, regulators, companies and partner organizations worldwide.

Cruelty Free International Chief Executive, Michelle Thew, stated: “We are thrilled to have Joss Stone on board and are grateful for her support in helping us with our mission for a global ban on the use of animals to test cosmetics.”

This Regulation requires that the responsible persons and, under certain circumstances, the distributors of cosmetic products submit through the CPNP some information about the products they place or make available on the European market.

The CPNP is making this information available electronically to the Competent Authorities (for the purposes of market surveillance, market analysis, evaluation and consumer information) and to the Poison Centres or similar bodies established by Member States (for the purposes of medical treatment).

The CPNP is accessible as from 11 January 2012 to Competent Authorities, European Poison Centres and cosmetic products responsible persons and will become accessible to cosmetic products distributors as from 11 July 2013.

The name change comes at a time when the European cosmetics industry represents one-third of the global market, across the entire range of personal care products. In Europe this innovative industry employs a total of 1.7 million people either directly or indirectly, including about 17,000 scientists. “Cosmetics Europe – The Personal Care Association” works with 18 multinational companies, 27 national associations and 4000 SMEs to ensure that the industry provides European consumers with safe, innovative and effective products.

The President of Cosmetics Europe, Fabio Franchina, said: “The European cosmetics industry is a fundamental driver of innovation. Our industry has responded effectively to new challenges in a globalised market. ‘Cosmetics Europe – The Personal Care Association’ will continue to work with our member companies and associations to enable our industry to thrive and in order to maintain an effective dialogue with our stakeholders.”

Director-General of Cosmetics Europe, Bertil Heerink, said: “The European cosmetics industry is the flagship of the cosmetics industry worldwide. This year our trade association celebrates half a century of working together for our industry. The change of name to ‘Cosmetics Europe – The Personal Care Association’ reflects the importance of this dynamic industry globally.”

The cosmetics and personal care industry provides a wide range of products to enhance hygiene, well-being and self esteem. For further information, visit the website: www.cosmeticseurope.eu.

Brussels, 23 January 2012

The brands were given naturalness ratings according to their ingredient composition. Certified organic brands scored highest (9-10), followed by pure natural cosmetics (4-7), semi-natural cosmetics (3), naturally inspired cosmetics (2) to conventional cosmetics (1).

Not surprisingly, many brands making natural / organic claims had ratings at the low end of the spectrum. Some were brandishing their skin care products as organic just because the formulations contained organic essential oils. Others were putting organic certification logos on product packaging because one major ingredient was certified. Most were making natural claims just because some ingredients were natural. This phenomenon is most observed in Asia and Latin America where many cosmetic products contain some natural ingredients.

Consumers are becoming lost in a maze of marketing claims and false labelling. One way to clear up consumer confusion is certification. By adopting natural & organic cosmetic standards, formulators have a clear list of permitted / prohibited ingredients and processes. Certification also builds consumer trust, giving a guarantee to consumers that products conform to some recognised standards. However, Organic Monitor believes certification is only part of the answer; marketing and distribution also play an important role.

Pure natural & organic brands have realised that overstating natural / organic ingredients and making unsubstantiated marketing claims only adds to consumer distrust. A growing number of brands are moving away from such claims and marketing their products as ‘authentic’ and ‘sustainable’. Others are focusing on their brands long history and origins, implying they have not just jumped on the ‘natural bandwagon’.

With consumer trust vital to success in the naturals arena, concept stores are becoming fashionable. Leading brands – including Melvita, Neal’s Yard Remedies and Weleda – are investing in concept stores. Apart from the benefits of interfacing direct with customers, the stores provide an ideal forum to educate consumers on their brand ethos, origins and product range.

Many years ago, The Body Shop set the standard in using concept stores as a platform for social activism. By focusing on marketing and distribution, the pioneering brands could now take the lead. Taking the right steps and clearing up the consumer confusion, only then can the natural & organic cosmetics story have a fairy tale ending.

Sustainable Cosmetics Summit
Marketing and distribution innovations are a major theme of the upcoming Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, taking place in Paris on 28-30th November 2011. As well as giving key findings of the Natural Cosmetics Brand Assessment study, the summit has a dedicated session on marketing and distribution. Topics include taking the direct route (concept stores), mainstream distribution, targeting the spa channel, retailers perspectives and reaching the green consumer.

Copyright © OrganicMonitor.com 2011

Organic food and drink has taken a hit, with sales slumping 10% to £1.5bn (EUR 1.8bn) last year as cash-strapped shoppers opted for cheaper alternatives. “Vegetarian products” also saw a small fall. But many other areas enjoyed strong growth, according to the group’s latest annual “ethical consumerism report”.

The biggest increases were in sales of “micro-generation” products such as solar thermal and solar photovoltaic panels and heat pumps (up by 386%), as well as “green” cars (up 129%).

Another sector seeing impressive growth was Fairtrade food and drink, which pays a premium to farmers and producers in poor countries to help them work their way out of poverty, and recorded a rise of more than a third (36%).

Sales of fish from sustainable sources grew by 16.3%, and expenditure on green funerals leaped by around 35% to £6.9m (EUR 8.3m) from £5.1m (EUR 6.1m).

Charitable donations have remained surprisingly stable during the downturn, with consumers giving £3.6bn (EUR 4.3bn) to environmental, social and animal welfare causes. In addition, the value of money in ethical savings and investments increased by 9% in 2010 to £21.1bn (EUR 25.3bn). This includes £9bn (EUR 10.8bn) in ethical bank deposits as well as £11.3bn (EUR 13.6bn) in ethical investments.

Copyright © OrganicMonitor.com 2011

There are around 193 known species of Medinilla, occurring in Madagascar, Africa, South Asia and the Pacific Islands. Of the 193 species, 11 can only be found in Fiji. One of them is the Tagimoucia flower, Medinilla waterhousei, the floral emblem of Fiji.

The Water and Nature Initiative works with local communities to help them better manage water resources on Kadavu island. The team was monitoring the degradation of the river basin in the area when the new plant was discovered.

“The discovery of this previously unknown species of plant gives us a sense of just how fragile nature can be,” says Dr Milika Sobey, Water and Wetlands Programme Coordinator at IUCN’s Oceania Regional Office. “The fact that it was found during work on a watershed management project is one more lesson in how important it is that nature is included in the priorities for water management.”

“Through the Water and Nature Initiative IUCN has shown in more than 30 countries worldwide that by working with local people and partners, it is possible to put in place sustainable solutions that meet the water needs of both people and nature,” says Dr Mark Smith, Director of the IUCN Global Water Programme.

The species was found on the border of grassland and primary forest. This location makes it highly vulnerable to bush fires that are common in the area.

“We only managed to find one plant of this kind,” says Mr Marika Tuiwawa, of the University of the South Pacific’s Institute of Applied Science, IUCN member and partner in the WANI project, who discovered the species. “Commercial agricultural activities and uncontrolled bush fires are the main threats to this species. A simple fire could destroy it in a matter of minutes.”

The plant’s common name has not been confirmed yet but the name Medinilla matasawalevu has been suggested to illustrate its location.

“The fact that only one plant of this kind was found so far and that it occurs in such a vulnerable place should set alarm bells ringing,” says Dr Jane Smart, Global Director of IUCN’s Biodiversity Conservation Group. “The challenge now is to protect the new species and raise awareness of its importance among local communities, to secure its long term future.”

Work is currently underway to confirm the exact classification of the new species, for which DNA research may be carried out.

Copyright © International Union for Conservation of Nature 2012

Viet Nam has favourable conditions to grow various kinds of oil plants, including peppermint, holy basil, cinnamon tree and anise, he said. Previously, the country had exported thousands tonnes of essential oils per year. However, the situation has completely changed in recent years since the cultivation areas for these plants shrank severely, he added. Duyen attributed the situation to the lack of a long-term development plan as well as Government support.

In addition, the current high tariffs imposed on essential oil products have made locally made products less competitive than imported ones, he said, requesting the Government to reconsider its policy in this regard. However, other delegates at the congress disagreed, saying a reduction in taxes might be impractical because it would have to extend to other agricultural commodities as well.

Hoang Van Duoc, the association’s chairman, said with the current situation of small-scale production and backward production technology, enterprises involved in the industry are only able to produce raw products with low export value, while refined essential oils were imported at much higher prices. As a result, the industry has a very high annual trade deficit of about US$65-100 million, mostly because of the import of cosmetics and aromatic spices, he said.

Nguyen Minh Khoi, head of the National Institute of Medicinal Materials, said the industry should seek ways to find more outlets for essential oil products that Viet Nam has an advantage in. It should also focus on growing high quality seedlings to replace poor quality plants, he said.

Delegates suggested that the association works with relevant ministries and localities to set up zoning plans for the industry. The association, which has 80 members, said it would soon submit to the Government a five-year (2011-16) -development plan for the industry.

It will also work to set up a stable material zone for high value oil plants in the coming years, Duoc said. The association will co-operate with local and foreign organisations to hold more seminars, training courses and trade promotion events to support its members.

It plans to set up a portal to provide more information to its members, he said.

Copyright © VietNam News, http://vietnamnews.vnagency.com.vn

A major piece of legislation that is of particular importance for the flavour industry, namely the new Flavouring Regulation[1] has recently replaced the former Flavouring Directive 88/388/EEC. This Flavouring Regulation is part of a larger package, called the ‘Food Improvement Agents Package’ (FIAP), comprising the Flavouring, Additives and Enzymes Regulation and the so-called Common Authorisation Procedure (CAP). Some of the major differences between the new Flavouring Regulation and the former Flavouring Directive 88/388/EC will be discussed. Special focus will be given to the Restricted Substances (including the impact on essential oils) and the changes in definitions (e.g. what is ‘natural’) in the new Flavouring Regulation.

Until recently, the former Flavouring Directive 88/388/EC applied to flavourings in the EU.[2] It was amended once by Commission Directive 91/71/EEC of 16 January 1991.[3] As this was a Directive, it was up to the EU Member States to take the necessary measures to ensure that flavourings were not marketed or used if they did not comply with the rules laid down in this Directive, as stated in Article 3 of this Directive.

However, on 31 December 2008 the new Flavouring Regulation was published in the Official Journal of the European Communities,[1] which came into force on 20 January 2009 and which has officially applied since 20 January 2011. The full title of this Regulation is:

• Regulation (EC) No 1334/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council on flavourings and certain food ingredients with flavouring properties for use in and on foods and amending Council Regulation (EEC) No 1601/91, Regulations (EC) No 2232/96 and (EC) No 110/2008 and Directive 2000/13/EC.

Since the application of this new Regulation, the former Council Directive 88/388/EEC of 22 June 1988, as well as its amendment Directive 91/71/EEC and the Commission Decision 88/389/EEC,[4] have been repealed.

As many essential oils and extracts either contain flavouring substances, or are regarded as ‘food ingredients with flavouring properties’ this new Flavouring Regulation will have an impact on essential oils and their use as flavouring ingredients for food products. Extracts and essential oils contain certain constituents (substances) that, according to this regulation, ‘should not be added as such to food’ or to which maximum levels apply.

They are often referred to as ‘biologically active substances’ or ‘active principles’. In particular, the application of maximum levels of these substances will have an impact on how and when extracts and essential oils, as well as herbs and spices, may or can be applied to food. Also, the definitions for ‘natural’ have drastically changed.

The species is on listed on the IUCN Red list and categorized as Vulnerable amid concerns about over-exploitation; the World Agroforestry Centre runs a project to preserve the tree. Dr. Alice Muchugi of the World Aagroforestry Centre recently spoke to Yvonne Otieno, IUCN CEC member, about the tree’s uses, potential, threats to its existence and ongoing research.

Q. Tell us more about the tree and where it is found.
A. It occurs in lowland rainforest, upland dry evergreen forest and in some swampy forests. Geographically the species is found in Democratic Republic of Congo, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Malawi, South Africa and Swaziland. In Kenya the species occurs widely in the highland forests (Aberdares, Cherangani, Chyulu, Karura, Mt Elgon, Rumuruti, Taita) and riverines of savannah woodlands (Masai Mara, Baringo).

Q. What are some of its uses?
A: W. ugandensis is widely used by the local communities living within the plant’s natural range to cure several ailments such as stomach-ache, constipation, toothache, common cold, cough, fever, muscle pains, weak joints, candidiasis, measles and malaria, as well as livestock diseases e.g. trypanasomiasis. It looks like it rivals the widely known neem tree (Azadirachta indica) in herbal remedies use that is claimed to cure “40 diseases”.

W. ugandensis plant extracts have high antimicrobial activity, meaning that it can kill many disease-causing microorganisms. Laboratory experiments support these claims. Although most of the plant parts (leaf, twigs, stem and root bark) display antimicrobial potency, the stem bark is the most widely used by traditional healers and medicine-men. As is the case in several medicinal plants, most bark is harvested from natural forests.

Q. Seeing that the tree has so many uses, is it under any threat?
A. Over-harvesting of the stem bark leads to the death of the tree hence threatening the species’ survival. In addition, the tree provides good timber and has been indiscriminately felled in some natural forests like Rumuruti (Kenya). There has also been a lot of encroachment of the natural forests for farming and settlement. Consequently, the survival of the species is under threat, but this status has not been reviewed by WCMC or IUCN except for the sub-species longifolia found in Tanzania. Review for such listing is needed.

Q. What research does the World Agroforestry Centre conduct on the tree?
A. For the last five years our interest in the species has been how the medicinal benefits can be sustained and its survival ensured. Surveys on existing natural forest in Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania show the species populations declining at an alarming rate and hence the need for urgent conservation measures. Incorporation of the tree in cropland will contribute to conservation. Several remnant trees are found on farmland generated from encroached natural forests. Here the species does not affect the food crop growing beneath it.

Q. What does is it mean to the public farmers and/or conventional and herbal medicine?
A. Our research results have shown that the species is very easy to propagate and also grows fast. These are characteristics farmers prefer in tree domestication.

Commercial use of W. ugandensis extracts in convectional drugs can also create an impetus for domestication of the species. Hence research is also focusing on the commercial application of the antimicrobial activity especially in the cure of economically important diseases such as malaria. Continued use of W. ugandensis twigs in brushing teeth prevents periodontal diseases and therefore W. ugandensis herbal-based toothpaste may be explored.

Currently, W. ugandensis herbal preparations are in the local market in Kenya and Uganda. A species in the same genus native to southern Africa, Warburgia salutaris herbal products are in the international market and can be purchased on-line.

Interestingly, W. ugandensis is a common tree within East African urban centres where it is planted for aesthetic value; it is evergreen! And when it comes to ceremonial tree planting sessions, of course W. ugandensis is the tree of choice!

Q. So what next in terms of research?
A. Current research activities aim to encourage on-farm planting to reduce harvesting pressure on natural forest, and to develop better farming techniques for the species. This includes both propagation and management of plant on farm and sustainable harvesting for the herbal industry.

The Centre is also doing more research focusing on production of more leaves than the bark and exploring the genetic manipulation to over-express important phytochemicals in the leaves and W. ugandensis extract based drug discovery for neglected diseases such as leishmaniasis and human trypansomiasis is also being explored with collaborating institutions

The Centre is encouraging the on-farm planting of the species for supply of the herbal extracts as well its conservation. Most of the mature W. ugandensis existing on farmers fields are remnants of the cleared forests or wildings collected locally. As these trees will be future seed sources, it is important to ensure that they are of wide genetic base.

Copyright © International Union for Conservation of Nature 2011

However, certain ingredients are restricted for use by either being inhibited or being imposed with certain conditions. The specifics are regulated in the various annexes of the cosmetic frameworks and the evaluation of the ingredients prior to the entry is performed by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), a scientific committee of the EU Commission. The safety assessment performed in this context and the criteria for the inclusion in one of the frameworks’ annexes are based on the principles and practice of the risk assessment process described in the “Notes of Guidance for Testing of Cosmetic Ingredients and Their Safety Evaluation by the SCCS.” The guidance document is also directed to public authorities and the cosmetic industry with the goal to harmonize the compliance with the cosmetic legal frameworks’ requirements among all parties involved. A new version of the document, i.e., the 7th edition, was released in April 2011.

When a mandate is issued for an ingredient assessment, a comprehensive process is initiated which is described on the website of the EU Commission’s Directorate General for Health and Consumers (DG SANCO). The SCCS’ engagement leads to the adoption of an opinion and depending on its conclusion, a new entry in the cosmetic frameworks’ annexes may result and be published as technical adaptation in the Official Journal of the European Union. Several opinions were recently published by the SCCS, either in a version open for comments or as final adopted opinions. Additionally, numerous mandates for new scientific opinions have been posted, with a specification of the assessment criteria and goals. The application areas mostly in focus with the new and ongoing ingredient assessments of hair dyes, preservatives and UV filters.

Hair Dyes

Eight opinions on hair dye components have been issued in 2011 including: HC blue No. 14, toluene-2,5-diamine and its sulfate, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-P-toluidine, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2’-carboxylic acid, basic red 51, basic red 76, acid orange 7 and HC yellow No. 13. Two of the eight opinions, HC blue No. 14 and hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-P-toluidine, are still open for comment until Sept. 2, 2011. Total hair dye opinions have numbered more than 120 since “Assessment Strategies on Hair Dyes,” a discussion paper on the potential of hair dyes to cause bladder cancer, was published in 2002 by the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP), the SCCS’s predecessor committee.

Additionally, 26 open requests exist for this application area. As a consequence of the assessment processes, numerous adaptations to technical progress of the Cosmetics Directives’ annexes and numerous total bans of substances have been released. In view of these results, the new Cosmetics Regulation brought a fundamental change in the regulatory approach for hair dye ingredients phrased in the new definition of colorants in Article 2, which includes hair colorants and also the precursors of oxidative hair dyes. Consequently, as of July 2013, when these ingredients are used in consumer and professional products, they need to be listed in Annex IV, the positive list of colorants allowed in cosmetic products.

Preservatives

The total number of preservatives under scrutiny is naturally smaller than the number of hair colorants. Four opinions have been published thus far in 2011, either in a complemented or a revised version. These include ethyl lauroyl arginate HCl, which was designated safe within the conditions set (no change to earlier opinion); triclosan, which was found not safe for use in all cosmetics at the conditions defined (no change to the opinion from 2009); chloroacetamide, which was found not safe under current conditions and a new review of parabens. Of these opinions, the one for ethyl lauroyl arginate HCl is still open for comments.

The opinion from March 2011 on parabens revises one adopted in December 2010. This was the consequence of new data on dermal absorption, which the SCCS received during the commenting period of four weeks after the December 2010 publication. However, these test results did not change the SCCS’ conclusions from December. Accordingly, additional human data are still needed for a secure scientific opinion, and the concentration of butylparaben and propylparaben in cosmetic products, according to the SCCS, should be reduced to 0.19%. This conclusion implies a considerable reduction compared to the concentration of 0.4% (single ester) specified in the annexes of the cosmetics frameworks.

With regard to methylparaben and ethylparaben, the authorized concentrations can be considered safe and remain unchanged. Additionally, the SCCS concludes that the human risk cannot be evaluated for isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben and phenylparaben because limited to no information was submitted for their safety evaluation. Consequently, the use of these substances is potentially at risk. Finally, the SCCS draws attention to benzylparaben and pentylparaben because of indications that they might be used in cosmetic products for “other purposes.” As none of them is listed in Annex VI of the Cosmetics Directive, the SCCS suspects effects on consumer safety.

Meanwhile Denmark has banned propylparabens and butylparabens in cosmetic products for children under three, which implies a marketing ban for the EU member state territory according to Article 12 of the Cosmetics Directive. This ban went into effect on March 15, 2011, and the EU Commission requested the SCCS to clarify if the safety concerns raised in the justification for the Danish ban are scientifically valued. However, when a draft legislation proposition to the French National Assembly in May 2011 requested to generally prohibit parabens, phthalates and alkylphenols, concerns on infringement with European Union law were raised and persecuted by European industry associations. In addition to the opinions, four open mandates for preservatives have been published in 2011, including: benzoisothiazolinone, climbazole, methenamine 3-chloroallylochloride and zinc pyrithione.

UV Filters

The SCCS has published one opinion so far in 2011 on UV filters, which found that based on data available, the safety of bis(butylbenzoate) diaminotriazine aminopropyltrisiloxane could not be assessed. Also, the SCCS has published four new mandates for the UV filters zinc oxide, ETH50, titanium dioxide and FAT 75’808 (HAA299, C-1332). The reviews for titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are both related to nanomaterial issues and are addressing the safety in use of the ingredients as UV filters in a maximum concentration of 25% based on new information obtained. Also targeted will be the option to differentiate in the regulatory provisions between materials in their nano form and their non-nano form while questioning how this differentiation could potentially be made.

In cosmetic products, zinc oxide is used for various ingredient functions such as bulking, skin protection, UV absorption and as an authorized colorant (CI 77947). Its use a as UV filter in sunscreen products at a maximum level of 25% had already been targeted in earlier activities. Resulting main concerns were related to the risk assessment of micronized zinc oxide, which had demonstrated photo-DNA damaging potential in cultured mammalian cells. Therefore, the SCCS had requested a repeated safety dossier on micronized and nano-sized zinc oxide. A clarification was adopted in 2009 that considered the use of zinc oxide in its non-nano form to be safe. As a consequence, micronized zinc oxide was approved for use as UV filter, e.g. in Germany, with the prerequisite of a yearly renewal of the approval. Meanwhile, new information became available providing for an overall safety assessment, including the micronized and the nano form.

Copyright © Annelie Struessmann, PhD, CONUSBAT 2011

Baths

For a wonderfully relaxing experience at the end of a busy day, just add 4 – 6 drops of an essential oil to a warm bath and soak for 15 minutes. Always agitate the water well before getting in. Choose from any of the relaxing oils such as Chamomile Roman, Clary Sage, Lavender, Marjoram Sweet or Sandalwood for a truly blissful experience. Alternatively you can use oils in the morning to give you an invigorating start to the day by simply choosing an appropriate stimulating oil.

If you use several oils together in the bath, ensure that you do not exceed a maximum total of 8 drops. When using a citrus oil in a bath never exceed 3 drops as they may be mildly irritating to some sensitive skins. Baths are particularly helpful if taken as well as massage, but always take the bath first and then apply the massage. For handicapped or elderly people a footbath is the ideal alternative to a conventional bath. Use only 3 or 4 drops of essential oil in a footbath.

Massage
This is one of the oldest and best methods to enjoy aromatherapy due to the added benefit the massage brings. Massage is also the most efficient method because the skin covers a large area and readily absorbs the oils into the bloodstream.

You can choose just one, or up to four essential oils suitable for your own particular needs and add them to your carrier in a dilution of 5 drops of essential oil to 10ml of carrier. If you have particularly sensitive skin use only 3 drops.

To calculate how many drops to use in a smaller measure, simply divide the amount of carrier in mls by 2, and that number is the total of drops of essential oil needed. For example, if you wanted to use just 6ml of carrier for a local application you would use 3 drops of essential oil.

Compresses

This is a highly effective method of pain relief and first aid. A HOT compress is for relieving chronic pain, period cramps etc. and a COLD one for reducing swelling, sprains and headaches. Put 4-6 drops of the oil into very hot or icy cold water.

Using a folded piece of absorbent material soak up the oils without fully immersing in the water, wring out excess and apply to the affected area. Finally, cover the area with a towel or wrap with polythene.

Steam inhalation

Used for centuries to help all respiratory tract problems, this method is a highly effective way to deliver essential oils into your system. Fill a large bowl with almost boiling water and add 3 or 4 drops of your individual essential oil or mixed blend. Lean over the bowl and breathe slowly and deeply for a few minutes until relief is felt. A towel may be placed over the head to help direct the vapours.
Instant Relief

For instant relief if you are suffering from a cold, asthma attack or hay fever, put 3 or 4 drops of essential oil onto a tissue or handkerchief and gently inhale, – a handy method to use when out of the house. This is also the recommended application for asthmatics, who should not expose themselves to steam.

Vaporizer

Excellent for room refreshing or to create a soothing atmosphere for relaxing or meditation by simply using an essential oil for it’s particular quality. Use during illnesses to kill airborne bacteria and help prevent the spread of infections.

Copyright © Geoff Lyth 2002

No, in general you will only need a licence if your products are sold as medicines or suggest they are by making medicinal claims on labels, promotional material or websites, in which case you will need either a Product Authorisation under the UK Medicines Act or a Traditional Herbal Registration under the Traditional Herbal Medicinal Products Directive. However if you manufacture aromatherapy products your premises may be subject to notification under the Cosmetic Regulations or licensing by your local authority who should be contacted for details.

For more information and specific advice on this topic, Contact Us.

Do I have to be an aromatherapist to make and sell aromatherapy products?

No, there is no legal requirement to be an aromatherapist or to hold any particular qualification to sell essential oils or make aromatherapy products containing them.

I am a qualified aromatherapist – can I sell the products I supply to my clients to the public?

Yes, but you cannot make medicinal claims for them and you will have to identify which of the several sets of legislation your products have to comply with and then develop, manufacture, label and market them to comply with that legislation.

What do I need to know to start selling essential oils and aromatherapy products?

First you will have to decide if you are going to develop and make the products yourself, commission someone else to make them or sell other peoples products as a distributor or retailer. Then you will have to identify the legislation that relates to your products and then make a business plan to make sure that you understand how much it will cost to develop, manufacture, package and/or sell your products.

ATC can help you to get your project stated either on a consultancy basis or as part of a membership package, Contact Us.

Is there legislation that applies to the sale to essential oils and aromatherapy products?

Yes, although there is no single piece of legislation that applies to the manufacture and sale of essential oils and aromatherapy products containing them there are several pieces of consumer protection legislation that might apply to these products they include the General Products Safety Regulations and the Cosmetic Products safety Regulations. The specific regulations that apply to essential oils and aromatherapy products will depend on the type of product and can be difficult to identify.

ATC’s regulatory experts can help you to identify the legislation that applies to your specific products. For further details, Contact Us.

What do I have to put on the label when selling essential oils to the public?

In addition to the wording specified by the General Product Safety Regulations, weights and measures and any other regulations relevant to your product it is good practice to have the common name and full botanical name of the essential oil (or product name if a mixture), directions for use, contraindications where applicable and specific warnings like do not take internally and keep away from children together with a batch number and use by date.

I am an aromatherapist what do I have to put on the label for products I sell to my clients?

It is good practice to follow the labelling requirements specified by the Medicines Act or the Traditional Herbal Medicinal Products Directive and include the name of the product and a list of active ingredients, the name of the client the product is provided to, your name and address, instructions for use and any contraindications and/specific or general warnings like do not take internally.

Are there companies that will help me develop and test my products?

There are a considerable number of companies and consultant organisations in UK and Europe that offer advice and testing facilities including safety assessments for essential oils and the products that contain them. You can find them by using key words like ‘Cosmetic products consultants’ and/or ‘Cosmetic safety assessment consultants’ into your web browser and following the links. In addition, some ATC members offer this service. See our Members List.

If you would like advice on the selection of consultants, Contact Us.

How do I dispose of essential oils safely?

For domestic users: contact your local authority waste disposal department or access their web page (details in your local telephone directory for specific advice on disposal of essential oils and/or cosmetic/perfumery products and follow their recommendations. If there is no specific advice then dispose of essential oils at your local Household Waste Recycling Centre in the same way as paint and solvents.

For professional/industrial users: contact your local Hazardous Waste disposal contractor, see local telephone or trade directory or search on line for contact details, and follow their instructions. Essential oils in bulk are considered to be hazardous waste and may be flammable.

How do I know the essential oils I buy are pure and not adulterated or contaminated?

This is a difficult and complex issue and is one of the reasons that ATC was established to bring together growers, distillers, manufacturers and suppliers of essential oils to promote the responsible marketing of pure, unadulterated essential oils primarily to the aromatherapy professions and allied industries see …. (link to ATC aims & objectives).

To see the companies who uphold the Aims and Objectives of the ATC, see our complete Members List.

For a more detailed discussion of the issues of adulteration, contamination and variability in essential oils see…..(link to article on buying essential oils)

If you would like to discuss this issue in more Contact Us.

How can I find out which essential oils are safe to use in pregnancy and on my baby?

Before using essential oils or products containing them during pregnancy or on babies or young children consult your doctor, midwife/health worker or qualified aromatherapy practitioner. In addition you should bear in mind the specific recommendations of specialist suppliers of products for use during pregnancy and for babies and young children.

Alternatively you can get advice by contacting the Aromatherapy Council.

Copyright © Aromatherapy Trade Council 2010

Undiluted essential oils

Do not apply undiluted essential oils directly to the skin except in an emergency; for example to cuts, burns or insect bites. A single drop of undiluted Lavender, Tea Tree or Chamomile Roman oil can be used to soothe and protect from infection – but you should only apply them neat once or twice. Some individuals can become sensitised to neat Tea Tree oil if it is applied repeatedly.

In particular, undiluted essential oils should be kept away from the delicate eye area, unattended children, pets and all highly polished surfaces. And never, ever, use undiluted oils on children under the age of 3. Their under-developed and delicate internal organs can not eliminate the oils or deal with their metabolites efficiently.

Pregnancy

If you are pregnant you must seek the advice of your doctor, midwife or aromatherapist before using any essential oils. Once your doctor has given their approval they should be used only after the first trimester, and then at only a 1% concentration, which is half the normal strength.

It is also a good idea to seek the advice of your supplier or aromatherapist to ensure that the essential oils you are thinking of using are not contraindicated during pregnancy. There is a lot of misinformation about precisely which essential oils should not be used and some aromatherapy books produce a huge list of contraindicated oils that are completely out of proportion to the facts.

Much of this misinformation is based on the internal use of the plant in herbal preparations, and this is certainly not the same as the external use of a diluted essential oil in massage. Most essential oil experts argue that since many contraindicated essential oils are used as food additives they can hardly be considered dangerous.

However, if you have a history of miscarriage do not use any essential oils at any time during your pregnancy since it is better to err on the side of caution under these circumstances. Essential oils best avoided throughout your pregnancy include:

• Camphor (Cinnamomum camphora)

• Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis)

• Sage (Salvia officinalis)

• Savin oil (Juniperus sabina) – Never use in aromatherapy

Babies, infants and young children

As already stated, never use any essential oils undiluted on babies up to 3 years old. Essential oils should be used at a fraction of the usual concentration, and the correct procedure is to calculate the amount of essential oil to be used by the body-weight of the infant:

•  1 to 2 stones – 1 drop of essential oil

• 2 to 4 stones – 2 or 3 drops of essential oil

• 4 to 6 stones – 4 or 5 drops of essential oil

Internal use

Never take essential oils internally, unless under the guidance of a qualified aromatherapist who has received the necessary training in this very specialised mode of administration. Most aromatherapists have not had this training, so be sure to check this out first.

You may read articles in magazines and books extolling the virtues of taking essential oils internally, but you should absolutely never attempt this without expert guidance.

Photosensitivity

Some essential oils are mildly photosensitising and should be either avoided or used at a low level prior to sunbathing or using a sunbed. The main photosensitising oils used in aromatherapy include:

• Angelica root oil (Angelica archangelica)

• Bergamot oil expressed (Citrus aurantium ssp. bergamia)

• Bitter Orange oil (Citrus aurantium)

• Cumin oil (Cuminum cyminum)

• Lemon oil cold pressed (Citrus limonum)

• Lime oil expressed (Citrus aurantifolia)

• Tagette oil (Tagetes minuta)

If you love Bergamot essential oil and want to go out into the sunshine, be sure to use Bergamot FCF which has had the photosensitising components removed.

Irritants and sensitisers

Some essential oils can irritate the skin if used in too high a concentration or for a long period of time. The essential oils below represent the most commonly known among this group.

• Bay Leaf oil (Pimenta racemosa)

• Cinnamon bark oil (Cinnamomum zeylanicum)

• Clove oils (stem, leaf, bud) Syzygium aromaticum

• Litsea Cubeba aka May Chang oil (Litsea cubeba)

• Origanum oil (Origanum vulgar)

• Tagette oil (Tagetes minuta)

• Thyme white and red oil (Thymus vulgaris)

• Use no more than 3 or 4 drops of citrus oils in the bath since some may irritate sensitive skin.

Oils that must be avoided altogether

Some essential oils should not be used in aromatherapy at all due to the danger of toxicity, severe irritation, sensitisation or other serious health risk. Most responsible aromatherapy suppliers do not offer such oils, but those listed below do find their way onto the market and should only ever be used by those have have undergone the necessary specialist training.

• Parsley herb oil (Petroselenium crispum)

• Pennyroyal oil (Mentha pulegium)

• Savin oil (Juniperus sabina)

• Tansy oil (Tanacetum vulgare)

• Wintergreen oil (Gaultheria procumbens)

• Wormwood oil (Artemisia absinthium)

Flammability

Many essential oils are flammable, so never use or put your bottles of essential oil near a naked flame, fire, or any source of ignition.

Copyright © 2007 Geoff Lyth